How to Have Seed Starting Success

<v Speaker 1>Broadcasting from Studio A here at proven Winners Color Choice Shrubs.
<v Speaker 1>It's time for the Gardening Simplified Show with Stacey Hervella
<v Speaker 1>me Rick weisst and our engineer and producer Adrianna Robinson.
<v Speaker 1>Well Stacey. Today we're going to talk about seed starting
<v Speaker 1>and this is a fun topic to talk about. As
<v Speaker 1>a matter of fact, my high school class voted me
<v Speaker 1>most likely to reseed, so this is right in my wheelhouse.
<v Speaker 1>Seed germination is the fundamental biological process by which a
<v Speaker 1>dormance seed wakes up and develops into a new functional
<v Speaker 1>seedling under favorable conditions. Favorable conditions being water and temperature
<v Speaker 1>and soil and oxygen, all those things. And this transformation
<v Speaker 1>involves the seed absorbing water, then splitting its outer coat
<v Speaker 1>and pushing out a root and shoot to begin independent growth.
<v Speaker 2>So cool, I mean, it is pretty cool when you
<v Speaker 2>think about everything that's packed into a little seed, you know,
<v Speaker 2>just ready to burst out with all of that potential.
<v Speaker 2>And you know, we talked a tiny bit. I think
<v Speaker 2>we had a question earlier this year about sewing milk
<v Speaker 2>weed seed. Now when we talk about seed starting today,
<v Speaker 2>we're mostly talking about starting seed indoors for your garden.
<v Speaker 2>But I do want to say that it's probably not
<v Speaker 2>too late to start the winter sewing method. We're you
<v Speaker 2>going to get into that. Am I stealing your thunder hair?
<v Speaker 1>Please run with it, because that is exactly what I
<v Speaker 1>was going to say. Whether it's milkweed or other types
<v Speaker 1>of perennials, it's not just about indoor seeding. We've got
<v Speaker 1>the milk jug method.
<v Speaker 2>That's the way.
<v Speaker 1>The message, you're sewing method on snow all that.
<v Speaker 2>Yeah, In fact, we had someone ask the other day
<v Speaker 2>about sewing poppy seed, and sowing those on snow is
<v Speaker 2>one of the best ways to do that. But I
<v Speaker 2>think most people when you talk about seeds starting at
<v Speaker 2>this time of year, they just immediately go like tomato
<v Speaker 2>seed indoors, and we are going to talk about that.
<v Speaker 2>But it's not too late if you want to grow
<v Speaker 2>perennials and that type of thing, hardy perennials from seed.
<v Speaker 2>Not too late to go ahead doing that winter stone
<v Speaker 2>method where you just kind of put them outside in
<v Speaker 2>a milk jug, cut the top off, of course, so
<v Speaker 2>that you can actually get in there and take the
<v Speaker 2>seeds out. But there's lots of ways to take advantage
<v Speaker 2>of this time. I mean, hey, we've made it through January.
<v Speaker 2>It's the middle of February. We're all itching to do something, right, Agree,
<v Speaker 2>this is the point where you're just like, I'm going
<v Speaker 2>to lose my mind if I don't see some life.
<v Speaker 2>This is a great way to kind of work towards
<v Speaker 2>that and get a little bit of a cure for
<v Speaker 2>these cabin fever blues.
<v Speaker 1>Absolutely, and some seeds, of course require stratification or some
<v Speaker 1>cold air or moisture or whatever it may be in
<v Speaker 1>order to break that seed coat and when spring comes
<v Speaker 1>along to germinate. So whether it's the milk jug method
<v Speaker 1>or over the top of the snow, there's only certain
<v Speaker 1>seeds you can do that with, and it's generally perennial
<v Speaker 1>seeds in the milk jugs. There's a variety of things
<v Speaker 1>you can do, including of course veggies like kale or
<v Speaker 1>other types of veggies like that where you can be successful,
<v Speaker 1>but that process is called cold stratification. Then you have
<v Speaker 1>the issue of all the people who want to sew
<v Speaker 1>wildflower seeds, and I want to get into that in
<v Speaker 1>segment four. Also because I've got some pointers on how
<v Speaker 1>you can be successful. Key steps for success things that
<v Speaker 1>you have to avoid or look for in order to
<v Speaker 1>be successful. I love and I know this is simplistic
<v Speaker 1>and elementary because we did it in school, but I
<v Speaker 1>love sowing bean seeds. I'm not suggesting you start them
<v Speaker 1>indoors right now. I'm saying direct sowing them into the
<v Speaker 1>garden kind of a jack and the bean stock thing.
<v Speaker 1>And the reason that I love growing beans and growing
<v Speaker 1>beans from seed or other types of seeds that are
<v Speaker 1>fast growing, forgiving, and give great rewards. I'm talking about beans, peas, lettuce, radishes, cucumbers, sunflowers, squash,
<v Speaker 1>all easy xenias, marigolds, nasturtiums. Well, I know that I
<v Speaker 1>didn't say I was going to Okay, gotcha, nistursiams or
<v Speaker 1>dil I'm just giving examples.
<v Speaker 2>Oh yeah, okay, that's good because you know, a lot
<v Speaker 2>of people do like marigolds.
<v Speaker 1>Right exactly, But they're the easy ones, right oh very.
<v Speaker 2>I mean, you know, I think at least people my age,
<v Speaker 2>probably every single on one of them, if they went
<v Speaker 2>to preschool or nursery school as it was called at
<v Speaker 2>the time, they would sow marrigold seeds from other's day.
<v Speaker 2>I clearly remember it.
<v Speaker 1>Exactly, and the easy ones tend to be really rewarding.
<v Speaker 1>Like beans. I'll put beans in the ground and boom,
<v Speaker 1>in a matter of days, they're growing, and then they
<v Speaker 1>grow fast, and then the beans start coming and coming
<v Speaker 1>and coming. I can't believe how bean plants produce. But
<v Speaker 1>you could say the same for sunflowers, how tall they grow,
<v Speaker 1>or cucumbers. Go out there every day and you're picking cucumbers.
<v Speaker 1>They're very easy and rewarding day.
<v Speaker 2>It's true. It is very exciting I think to stand
<v Speaker 2>in your garden in the summertime and you know, like
<v Speaker 2>a vegetable garden and look around and be like I
<v Speaker 2>held these tiny little seeds in my hands exact, and
<v Speaker 2>now they're growing, and you know, it's interesting. There is
<v Speaker 2>definitely a correlation to a point about how large which
<v Speaker 2>a seed is and how easily it germinates. So that's
<v Speaker 2>why being seeds germinate so easily. That bulk of that
<v Speaker 2>seed is endosperm, which is sort of the food package
<v Speaker 2>for the little embryo inside to you. So if that
<v Speaker 2>embryo has a big food package like it does with
<v Speaker 2>a bean or a pea or something like that, or
<v Speaker 2>in astritchum, those tend to germinate much more quickly than
<v Speaker 2>something very tiny. You know, tomato seeds i'd say are
<v Speaker 2>in the middle. They're small seeds, and they take probably
<v Speaker 2>a good ten days generally to germinate. So usually what
<v Speaker 2>you're seeing, the larger the seed, the quicker it's going
<v Speaker 2>to germinate for you.
<v Speaker 1>I'm glad you brought that up, though, because if we
<v Speaker 1>are sowing seeds indoors, starting some tomatoes indoors, some bogonias,
<v Speaker 1>whatever it may be, initially get a very good quality
<v Speaker 1>seeds starting soil, but you don't have to fertilize from
<v Speaker 1>the start. You're going to, at least in my experience,
<v Speaker 1>I won't start fertilizing until the seeds had germinated and
<v Speaker 1>started growing. And then if they start to yellow a little.
<v Speaker 1>Of course, worm castings or a diluted water soluble fertilizer
<v Speaker 1>in the bottom tray which does not have drainage holes
<v Speaker 1>the trays in the larger tray do, they'll be able
<v Speaker 1>to uptake that moisture and the nutrients. But from the
<v Speaker 1>very start that seed has what it needs to grow.
<v Speaker 2>So I have a little confession to make rial. Okay,
<v Speaker 2>I just use my leftover potting soil to start my seeds.
<v Speaker 1>Wow, you're living on the edge.
<v Speaker 2>I mean it's never been a problem. It's very dry
<v Speaker 2>because it's been sitting in a container, you know, all winter,
<v Speaker 2>just sort of waiting it out. And you know, really,
<v Speaker 2>seeds don't need any nutrition in the soil to Germany,
<v Speaker 2>they need it to grow, but they don't need it
<v Speaker 2>to germinate because again they have all that nutrition in
<v Speaker 2>their little endosperm package that makes up the seed. So yeah,
<v Speaker 2>when you know, when it comes time to start the seed,
<v Speaker 2>and usually start my vegetable seeds around late March early April,
<v Speaker 2>I can get into those big storage containers where I've
<v Speaker 2>stored my potting mix for the season. I just fill
<v Speaker 2>up a bunch of small containers with that and plant
<v Speaker 2>directly in there. And then once they have what's known
<v Speaker 2>as their first set of true leaves, because the first
<v Speaker 2>thing that comes out is the cottaledens or seed leaves
<v Speaker 2>as they're called. It doesn't actually look like the plant,
<v Speaker 2>but that first true leaf does look like the actual
<v Speaker 2>plant that you're trying to grow. Typically, that's when I
<v Speaker 2>might start to fertilize a little bit, and yeah, I'll
<v Speaker 2>just use like a regular diluted fertilizer, just to keep
<v Speaker 2>them going, because it is important with seeds, even if
<v Speaker 2>you are using a fresh mix, if you want that vigorous,
<v Speaker 2>sustained growth. You know, if they're small in not growing vigorously,
<v Speaker 2>then it's probably not worth doing.
<v Speaker 1>I've seen people use a variety of things, including cinnamon
<v Speaker 1>of all things. Yeah, read that try to avoid, yes,
<v Speaker 1>the mold, the fungus or damping off that you can
<v Speaker 1>get with little seed links. For my money, milled spagnum
<v Speaker 1>is the way to go. It's going to do the
<v Speaker 1>job for you. It's not that expensive, it's clean, it's
<v Speaker 1>easy to use, So I recommend milled spagnum regardless of
<v Speaker 1>the type of soil you're using. Humidity is important, but
<v Speaker 1>so is air movement, so you've got to kind of
<v Speaker 1>monitor the whole thing. And some heat and the ambient
<v Speaker 1>light through a window generally is not going to be enough.
<v Speaker 1>So we'll talk on today's show also about lighting and
<v Speaker 1>lighting that you can use. But the metaphor of planting
<v Speaker 1>a seed represents the start of something new, an idea,
<v Speaker 1>a project, a habit, a relationship, whatever it may be.
<v Speaker 1>It's nurturing and That's the great thing about seed starting.
<v Speaker 1>It symbolizes hope. You learn, you got to read the
<v Speaker 1>seed packet. You have to establish a good foundation. Sometimes
<v Speaker 1>you just have to act and hope for the best
<v Speaker 1>scattering seeds and and of course effort is involved to
<v Speaker 1>nurture growth. So I've got a planting seed limb a
<v Speaker 1>rick for you today. With just a little of your attendance,
<v Speaker 1>your plants will begin their ascendants, break from their seeds.
<v Speaker 1>Coating with seedlings, you'll be noting their declaration of independence
<v Speaker 1>in life. You can plant a seed, then with care
<v Speaker 1>you can proceed a good deed. You'll sew you can
<v Speaker 1>help this. I know when with compassion you interced. There
<v Speaker 1>you go, nice, nice, warm, fuzzy there. Well, we'll find
<v Speaker 1>out what Stacy has in mind in plants on trial
<v Speaker 1>as we talk seeds starting today here on the Gardening Simplified.
<v Speaker 2>Show, beautify your home and community with proven winner's color
<v Speaker 2>choice shrubs with over three hundred and twenty five unique
<v Speaker 2>varieties to choose from. There's a flowering shrub or evergreen
<v Speaker 2>for every taste and every space. Just look for the
<v Speaker 2>distinctive white container your local garden center or learn more
<v Speaker 2>at proven winner's Color Choice dot Com Greeting's gardening friends,
<v Speaker 2>and welcome back to the Gardening Simplified Show, where we're
<v Speaker 2>talking all about seeds because we are on the cusp
<v Speaker 2>of the promise of spring, and you know, seeds starting
<v Speaker 2>is just a great activity for this time of year,
<v Speaker 2>or almost this time of year. We'll get more into
<v Speaker 2>the proper timing of vegetable gardening seeds, starting them indoors,
<v Speaker 2>because it's tempting to start them very early because you're
<v Speaker 2>bored and you want something to do, and you might
<v Speaker 2>think that, oh, this is going to be great if
<v Speaker 2>my tomato has an extra six weeks indoors. No, it isn't.
<v Speaker 2>It does not want twelve weeks indoors. Trust me on this.
<v Speaker 1>It may I've been there.
<v Speaker 2>I'm speaking from experience.
<v Speaker 1>It may not exceed your experience page.
<v Speaker 2>It very much will not.
<v Speaker 1>But this is a great topic sprouted from the rooftop.
<v Speaker 2>So now you can get prepared. You can order your seeds,
<v Speaker 2>you can go to the garden center and buy them,
<v Speaker 2>and yeah, so of different ways to kind of muddle
<v Speaker 2>through these last waning weeks of winter before the weather
<v Speaker 2>starts to favor us gardeners. Now, have you ever wondered
<v Speaker 2>why some plants seed like crazy all around your yard,
<v Speaker 2>whether that's plants that you actually want, like, you know,
<v Speaker 2>the arugula itself sows in my garden, or lettuce which
<v Speaker 2>self sows abundantly in my garden. Dill love heaven, Dill
<v Speaker 2>pop up wherever it wants to love all of that.
<v Speaker 1>I'm hoping you're gonna tell us, Yeah, well, have.
<v Speaker 2>You ever wondered why that doesn't happen so much with shrubs?
<v Speaker 1>Yeah?
<v Speaker 2>Yeah, because you don't typically have Now, there are some exceptions.
<v Speaker 2>Rows of sharon, of course comes to mind. A lot
<v Speaker 2>of people dislike old fashioned roses of sharon because they
<v Speaker 2>can be quite seedy.
<v Speaker 1>Old fashioned budle.
<v Speaker 2>Old fashioned budleia can seed around. But typically with those
<v Speaker 2>couple of limited exceptions, we don't normally have shrubs, and
<v Speaker 2>in some trees in our yard that become super weedy
<v Speaker 2>and problematic. And it's really because overall, not all again
<v Speaker 2>we're generalizing here, some seed of woody plants just needs
<v Speaker 2>the right conditions to germinate, and it's those right conditions
<v Speaker 2>are just not the everyday conditions. You know that other
<v Speaker 2>things like weeds and so forth can germinate in you
<v Speaker 2>talked about stratification, meaning you know, putting it having a
<v Speaker 2>cold treatment scarification where it might need the seed coat
<v Speaker 2>to be nicked up or you know, kind of softened
<v Speaker 2>so that water can penetrate. So there's a lot of
<v Speaker 2>reasons why woody plant seeds don't germinate at the same
<v Speaker 2>rate that a lot of herbaceous plant seed does. But
<v Speaker 2>that doesn't mean that the seed of woody plants can't
<v Speaker 2>be highly ornamental and highly interesting. So I wanted to
<v Speaker 2>use today's plants on trial to share with you some
<v Speaker 2>of my favorite shrubs that I grow for their seed
<v Speaker 2>interest like that. Now, this isn't necessarily to say that
<v Speaker 2>I find the seeds interesting and harvest them and sew them. No,
<v Speaker 2>that's not the point. These are plants where their seed
<v Speaker 2>or their seed pods are actually very much a part
<v Speaker 2>of their ornamental or other appeal.
<v Speaker 1>Similar to how you love the seed pods on Baptisia, right.
<v Speaker 2>One of my absolute favorites, and you know I love
<v Speaker 2>oh gosh, no, I'm going raapsotic, but you know I
<v Speaker 2>love Batisia in the winter and it gets that beautiful
<v Speaker 2>charcoally color and then you know you've got those wonderful
<v Speaker 2>seed heads that make that lovely kind of clankingyed like
<v Speaker 2>delicate sound. And of course, Baptisia is a herbaceous perennial,
<v Speaker 2>which there's plenty of perennials that I could talk about
<v Speaker 2>seeds that I love, but no, we're talking about shrubs.
<v Speaker 2>And so when we're talking about the sounds of seeds,
<v Speaker 2>I'm going to start with my all time most favorite
<v Speaker 2>shrub for seed. It is unexpected and it is simply sensational.
<v Speaker 2>Kelly Canthus. Wow, And no you didn't so simply sensational.
<v Speaker 2>Kelly Canthus of one of my all time favorite proven
<v Speaker 2>Winner's Color choice shrubs for its flowers and it's flowers.
<v Speaker 2>It has these beautiful, unique maroon type flowers in basically
<v Speaker 2>summer early summer. They smell like bananas and bubblegum and strawberries,
<v Speaker 2>and it's just it's wild. They have so many amazing fragrances.
<v Speaker 2>It's native, they have cool foliage, it's deer resistant. I mean,
<v Speaker 2>I love, love, love these plants and their seed pods
<v Speaker 2>are not often appreciated, and I brought one in today
<v Speaker 2>for our YouTube viewers to see. Now you can see
<v Speaker 2>This is the seed pod of the Kelly canthus. And
<v Speaker 2>sure it looks pretty cool, but this is the best part.
<v Speaker 2>You're ready for this? Oh wow, baby, Yeah, it's a
<v Speaker 2>little baby rattle. So you know, most things that set seed,
<v Speaker 2>the seeds kind of stay attached to the wall of
<v Speaker 2>the fruit. This is one of those unique plants where
<v Speaker 2>the fruit kind of dries out and the seed becomes
<v Speaker 2>free inside, and so you can rattle it around. I mean,
<v Speaker 2>how cool is that.
<v Speaker 1>I loved that.
<v Speaker 2>And then when this is on the plant, this is
<v Speaker 2>obviously dried out now, but when this is on the plant,
<v Speaker 2>it's just this like wild kind of lime green purse
<v Speaker 2>in the plant, and it's just such a unique characteristic
<v Speaker 2>of this plant. So this is my number one simply
<v Speaker 2>sensational Kelly Canthus. Come for the flowers, stay for the seed.
<v Speaker 1>So if you're driving in your car, or you downloaded
<v Speaker 1>the podcast or whatever, you're busy doing whatever and listening, Stacy,
<v Speaker 1>this is kellikanthus c A L y c A N
<v Speaker 1>T h U S.
<v Speaker 2>Yeah. Some people call it sweet trup, So sorry if
<v Speaker 2>I a alienated anyone, but yeah, simply sensational. Do you
<v Speaker 2>want to give it a rattle? I mean, it's pretty satisfying. Right,
<v Speaker 2>that's kind of great.
<v Speaker 1>I love that I can do.
<v Speaker 2>That's it's on my desk. That's how much I love
<v Speaker 2>it all right. Next up a plant that apparently is polarizing,
<v Speaker 2>although I personally can't imagine anyone not liking these seedheads clematis. Sure,
<v Speaker 2>you know, so clematis when the flowers fall and these
<v Speaker 2>it makes these really cool kind of hin wheel puffball
<v Speaker 2>type of things, and the seeds are known as a
<v Speaker 2>keenes And yeah, it's it's fluffy. It looks like a
<v Speaker 2>little cute creature on the end of each stem. So
<v Speaker 2>in the summer when they are maturing, they have a
<v Speaker 2>really lovely kind of silken quality. But then in the
<v Speaker 2>winter they become fluffy and they look like these cool
<v Speaker 2>little fluffy puff balls at the end of your clematis.
<v Speaker 2>And I just think they are extremely cool.
<v Speaker 1>Yeah, yeah, I'm.
<v Speaker 2>Glad that you're on my side, because you know, when I,
<v Speaker 2>like I said, when I was looking up Clematis seed
<v Speaker 2>just you know, to see, hey, are there ones that
<v Speaker 2>I should say this doesn't really get seed or whatever.
<v Speaker 2>You know, some of the things that I read said,
<v Speaker 2>you know, some people hate them, but I was like,
<v Speaker 2>who hates this? Like adorable lu little Clementis seed, they
<v Speaker 2>are great. Another one are sugar shack Cephalanthis sugar shack
<v Speaker 2>cephalanthis also known as button bush now button bush, is
<v Speaker 2>a native shrub. It grows everywhere around here. Its flowers
<v Speaker 2>are so cool. They are around with all of these
<v Speaker 2>little stamens sticking out of them. They attract pollinators, They
<v Speaker 2>smell like honey. They are wonderful, but are the normal
<v Speaker 2>native ones that you would see around. When that flower fades,
<v Speaker 2>they just kind of turn into like a little brown ball,
<v Speaker 2>which is still pretty cool. But with the sugar shack variety,
<v Speaker 2>the seed first turns red and they're much larger. So
<v Speaker 2>this is a highly ornamental aspect of this plant. And
<v Speaker 2>I think this is one of those plants that, you know,
<v Speaker 2>you might not think this is a big deal or
<v Speaker 2>anything worth remarking over. However, when you see them on
<v Speaker 2>a plant, especially a plant that flowers way more than average,
<v Speaker 2>like sugarshack does, the effect is really quite sunny. Even
<v Speaker 2>and the plant is not in bloom or you know,
<v Speaker 2>in winter when it's dormant, and it just has these
<v Speaker 2>little kind of like party balls hanging off it all
<v Speaker 2>over the place. It's you know, these are like the
<v Speaker 2>little things that gets you through winter.
<v Speaker 1>Oh that's awesome.
<v Speaker 2>Now, of course, berries are a type of seed. The
<v Speaker 2>seed is inside the berry. It's a little bit different
<v Speaker 2>when it's a berry seed. But you know, I think
<v Speaker 2>about our beautiful sambucus, lemone lace and black lace just
<v Speaker 2>get gorgeous, gorgeous seed. They're usually gone by winter because
<v Speaker 2>of course the birds have eaten them, but while they
<v Speaker 2>are maturing through fall and are still fleshy and colorful,
<v Speaker 2>they're really interesting. I really like the seedheads of our
<v Speaker 2>chick lit Tacoma. So the chick lit to comas get
<v Speaker 2>these really neat. They're not in the bean family, but
<v Speaker 2>they look like beans, and so I've grown that as
<v Speaker 2>a patio plant, and I always find that when the
<v Speaker 2>flowers start to fade and set, those long green seed pods,
<v Speaker 2>they're really cool. Now, another highly underrated one that is ubiquitous,
<v Speaker 2>but I think a lot of people don't stop to
<v Speaker 2>really appreciate how unique and cool the seeds are. Arborviding
<v Speaker 2>and when you look at an arborvidy cone, it looks
<v Speaker 2>like a tiny little lily. They're very flower like in
<v Speaker 2>their own right. If they don't. If you're looking at
<v Speaker 2>a plant and those little cones don't look like a flower,
<v Speaker 2>you're probably looking at a cama cipress instead of an arbivide.
<v Speaker 2>Camera cipress cones are shaped different, whereas the arborvity it's
<v Speaker 2>just shaped like a perfect little lily. And you know,
<v Speaker 2>sometimes Arboridis can get way too much fruit and that
<v Speaker 2>kind of makes the whole plant look a little bit brown.
<v Speaker 2>But overall, most of them just said enough seed. I
<v Speaker 2>think to be really interesting, and I also think they're
<v Speaker 2>really nice for like crafts or if you're like me
<v Speaker 2>and you just put a whole lot of weird, crazy
<v Speaker 2>stuff that you find in nature on your windowsills, they
<v Speaker 2>look great there too, so so you know, wow, this
<v Speaker 2>would be a great time to go out in your yard,
<v Speaker 2>to park to arboretums, into the nature and take a
<v Speaker 2>look at those seed pods inspired and think about the
<v Speaker 2>promise they hold within so all my life.
<v Speaker 1>There you have.
<v Speaker 2>We're gonna take a little break when we come back,
<v Speaker 2>we're going to look at the mailbag. So stay tuned
<v Speaker 2>at proven winners color choice shrubs. We know that a
<v Speaker 2>better landscape starts with a better shrub. Our team of
<v Speaker 2>experts tests and evaluates all of our flowering shrubs in
<v Speaker 2>evergreens for eight to ten years to ensure they outperform
<v Speaker 2>what's already on the market. For easycare, reliable, beautiful shrubs
<v Speaker 2>to accentuate your home and express your personal style, look
<v Speaker 2>for Proven Winner's Shrubs in the distinctive white container at
<v Speaker 2>your local garden center or learn more at proven Winner's
<v Speaker 2>Color Choice dot com. Greetings gardening friends, and welcome back
<v Speaker 2>to the Gardening Simplified Show, where it is our time
<v Speaker 2>to answer garden questions, quandaries, conundrums and celebrations. So we'd
<v Speaker 2>love to hear from you on any of those topics,
<v Speaker 2>so you can always reach out to us at Gardeningsimplified
<v Speaker 2>on air dot com. You know, as the season draws near,
<v Speaker 2>people may have questions, and of course, you know in
<v Speaker 2>some areas it's if you're in a warmer climate. I
<v Speaker 2>know we have a lot of wonderful listeners. In warmer climates,
<v Speaker 2>you're practically in pruning season for stuff that needs pruning
<v Speaker 2>in spring. You're almost at perennial cleanup here in mid
<v Speaker 2>late February, so you may have a question and we
<v Speaker 2>would be happy to help you, So please feel free
<v Speaker 2>to reach out, or just if you're on YouTube, leave
<v Speaker 2>a comment on the video here, and Adriana reads all
<v Speaker 2>of those and passes those along to us. So lots
<v Speaker 2>of different ways to reach us.
<v Speaker 1>Send us a question, send us pictures. Yeah, if you
<v Speaker 1>don't have a question, you don't have pictures. Send us brownies.
<v Speaker 2>I was going to say a drawing, but brownie's cool too,
<v Speaker 2>because yeah, lots going on very soon, even if right
<v Speaker 2>now you are only merely looking at out at your
<v Speaker 2>garden hoping the plants are still alive after this wild
<v Speaker 2>and crazy winter. Wow. Okay, well what do we got?
<v Speaker 2>In the mail?
<v Speaker 1>Leg and asks hello, Rick and Stacey, what is the
<v Speaker 1>proper way to prune barberry bushes? I have read that
<v Speaker 1>you should do a rejuvenation prune on them, because if
<v Speaker 1>you prune midway down a branch, it will develop a
<v Speaker 1>witch's broom. If this is the case, do you do
<v Speaker 1>a selective rejuvenation prune or cut it all the way
<v Speaker 1>back to the ground. I have four bushes that are
<v Speaker 1>in a very prominent location at the front of my home,
<v Speaker 1>and a total rejuvenation would leave a very blank look.
<v Speaker 2>Yeah, all right now, it's no secret barbary or not
<v Speaker 2>my favorite plants, but I'm still going to give Anne.
<v Speaker 2>I'm still going to give Anne some good advice. And
<v Speaker 2>this is for any of our listeners who have barbary.
<v Speaker 2>My number one piece of advice for pruning. Barbary is
<v Speaker 2>avoided as long as you possibly can, for a couple
<v Speaker 2>of reasons. Number one, they are very thorny, notoriously thorny,
<v Speaker 2>and not just like a rose thorn where you're like, okay,
<v Speaker 2>that's a big thorn. They're fine, sharp, needly little thorns
<v Speaker 2>that really hurt a lot. So you don't want a
<v Speaker 2>prune a barbary unnecessarily and have to deal with all
<v Speaker 2>of these horrible thorns. And second of all, barbary is
<v Speaker 2>not a good candidate overall for rejuvenation pruning. They're slow
<v Speaker 2>growing and this is true even in production, and actually
<v Speaker 2>it's one of the reasons why I'm so surprised that
<v Speaker 2>barbaria has become as popular as it is, because you know,
<v Speaker 2>from a production standpoint, from a grower actually producing barbary
<v Speaker 2>to salad market, they're slow, they're finicky, and so for
<v Speaker 2>you as a home gardener, you know, if you were
<v Speaker 2>to go and do like a rejuvenation pruning like you
<v Speaker 2>can do on something like a lilac or a hydrangea,
<v Speaker 2>It is going to take a barbary a very very
<v Speaker 2>long time to recover from severe pruning. But also, and yes,
<v Speaker 2>you are right, if you cut a barber just kind
<v Speaker 2>of in the middle, just like hack it back, you
<v Speaker 2>will get witch's rooms. Because what's going to happen is
<v Speaker 2>whatever bud you have cut back to or the next
<v Speaker 2>lowest bud from your cut point, all sorts of growth
<v Speaker 2>is going to come out of that. Multiple points of
<v Speaker 2>growth is going to come out of that, and so
<v Speaker 2>you're going to get a plant that is losing its shape. Now,
<v Speaker 2>a lot of barbaries are grown specifically for their shape.
<v Speaker 2>You know, there are some that get very large and
<v Speaker 2>may need management, but a lot of the barbaries that
<v Speaker 2>are in the proven winner's line, like sun Joy Gold Pillar,
<v Speaker 2>our best seller, naturally grows as a very neat kind
<v Speaker 2>of pillar like shape. We have very small ones that
<v Speaker 2>just stay very tough atyat and small. So if you're
<v Speaker 2>choosing a new one, I would say definitely look for
<v Speaker 2>one that's not really going to require pruning. Now, for
<v Speaker 2>you and if your plants need pruning, don't feel like
<v Speaker 2>you have to prune them. But if you're looking at
<v Speaker 2>them going out they're looking kind of old and tired,
<v Speaker 2>then yes, I would recommend more of a selective approach.
<v Speaker 2>And what I would do would be to just take
<v Speaker 2>out one, two, up to three probably of the oldest,
<v Speaker 2>gnarliest stems in the plant. You don't have to go crazy.
<v Speaker 2>There's always ways you can always cut more. That's the
<v Speaker 2>biggest thing about pruning. You can always go back and
<v Speaker 2>cut more, but you can't put it back if you've
<v Speaker 2>cut it and wish that you hadn't. But yeah, identify
<v Speaker 2>sort of the worst defender, the biggest branch, because a
<v Speaker 2>lot of that old growth as it matures, it becomes
<v Speaker 2>less productive. It doesn't put out as much nice, soft,
<v Speaker 2>colorful growth anymore. So take out again there's one, two,
<v Speaker 2>maybe up to three largest oldest stems, and that's going
<v Speaker 2>to allow a lot of light and air and that
<v Speaker 2>kind of thing into the center of the plant and
<v Speaker 2>help it recover. But yeah, if you do a severe
<v Speaker 2>pruning on barbary, you're going to be stuck with something
<v Speaker 2>real ugly for a really long time.
<v Speaker 1>No, I think you hit it out of the park
<v Speaker 1>with your answer. And I think Anne is really smart
<v Speaker 1>for looking at it from this perspective and the witch's
<v Speaker 1>broom perspective, because how many neighbor neighborhoods have I either
<v Speaker 1>run or driven through and seen that Oh yeah, I
<v Speaker 1>mean it's just yeah, yeah.
<v Speaker 2>So or you know, plant something else, because there's lots
<v Speaker 2>of other things that you can grow instead of Barbarie.
<v Speaker 2>They don't have thorns and are much friendlier. But yeah,
<v Speaker 2>particularly subject, prickly subject, and like I said, just one
<v Speaker 2>of those plants. Some plants they just don't recover well
<v Speaker 2>from severe pruning, and barbary certainly among them.
<v Speaker 1>Stacy Allen writes for some advice, I want to prune
<v Speaker 1>or deadhead my high Drangers, but I'm afraid I will
<v Speaker 1>cut off next year's flowers. How do I know where
<v Speaker 1>on the stem to stop? And Alan, if I had
<v Speaker 1>a dime for every time I've heard this question, I'd
<v Speaker 1>be a rich man. Yeacause you're not the only one,
<v Speaker 1>Alan who struggles with it.
<v Speaker 2>Yeah, for sure, And this is a great time to
<v Speaker 2>be asking that question, because you know, usually we often
<v Speaker 2>recommend that you don't prune any hydranges in fall, because
<v Speaker 2>the flowerheads are nicer to look at in the winter
<v Speaker 2>than just a cut off branch. But yet as spring
<v Speaker 2>starts to come, one thing that often happens with hydranges
<v Speaker 2>of all types is that wind and snow and all
<v Speaker 2>of that will just cause the flowerheads to kind of
<v Speaker 2>fall off naturally, but a lot of them do persist.
<v Speaker 2>So I'm assuming Alan, that you're talking about a big
<v Speaker 2>leaf hydrange of hydrange of Macrophylla that, as you know,
<v Speaker 2>has old wood flower buds on it. So the buds
<v Speaker 2>that are dormant on the stem right now have the
<v Speaker 2>flower buds for next season. So yeah, if you cut
<v Speaker 2>too far, you will definitely be removing those flower buds
<v Speaker 2>that the plant has already created. So here's what she needs.
<v Speaker 2>To hold the flower head in your hand and then
<v Speaker 2>just trace the little stem that connects it to the
<v Speaker 2>plant down to the next full set of bud. Now,
<v Speaker 2>your plant's probably still very dormant. This is a fine
<v Speaker 2>time to do this. If you get a nice sunny
<v Speaker 2>winter day and you're itching to do something, this is
<v Speaker 2>a fine time to go out there and do that.
<v Speaker 2>But yeah, follow that little stem back to the first
<v Speaker 2>full set of buds, So that means two buds directly
<v Speaker 2>across from each other. If the plant's dormant, it's probably
<v Speaker 2>just gonna look kind of like a little leaf scar
<v Speaker 2>like two kind of little tiny dishes disc type shapes,
<v Speaker 2>and you want them to be across from each other
<v Speaker 2>because sometimes with these hydranges, they'll have a single leaf
<v Speaker 2>bud underneath it. You don't have to worry about that.
<v Speaker 2>But you'll see that first set where they're directly across
<v Speaker 2>from each other. That's where those flower buds are lurking
<v Speaker 2>and waiting to grow when spring comes. So just trace
<v Speaker 2>it back to their cut just above that first set
<v Speaker 2>of leaves, and you're good to go.
<v Speaker 1>I think it's a good time. Stacy also to remind
<v Speaker 1>folks about hydranges demystified.
<v Speaker 2>Ah, yes, definitely.
<v Speaker 1>Again, it's gonna depend on weather or not it's a
<v Speaker 1>big leaf hydrangel or a panicle or an oak leaf.
<v Speaker 2>Right, So our Hydrange's demystified information sheet gives you everything
<v Speaker 2>you need to know about the different types of hydrangeas. Now,
<v Speaker 2>this is the reason I kind of tailored my answer
<v Speaker 2>here allen to big leaf hydrangels specifically, is because they're
<v Speaker 2>the only ones that you're really going to kind of
<v Speaker 2>do that work to. You can also do this for
<v Speaker 2>oak leaf hydrangeas, which also bloom on old wood. But
<v Speaker 2>if you have a panicle hydrangel like Limelight or Pinky
<v Speaker 2>Winkie or a smooth hydrangel like Annabelle or Incredible, those kinds,
<v Speaker 2>you don't have to worry about dead heading them because
<v Speaker 2>typically those types will get pruned. They bloom on new wood.
<v Speaker 2>That means they don't have any flower buds on them
<v Speaker 2>yet for this coming summer, whereas the old ones already do.
<v Speaker 2>They already have their flower buds for this July and August.
<v Speaker 2>So the new wood blooming ones, you don't have to
<v Speaker 2>worry about dead heading because if you are going to
<v Speaker 2>prune them by the standard one third that we recommend,
<v Speaker 2>to make sure that you know they have strong, sturdy
<v Speaker 2>stems a good framework to and bloom on. Those flowers
<v Speaker 2>come off in the pruning and you don't need to
<v Speaker 2>worry about it. So and again, the worst is going
<v Speaker 2>to happen when in doubt don't. That's my advice for pruning,
<v Speaker 2>because the worst it's gonna happen if you're not sure
<v Speaker 2>and you leave the brown flowers on, is that the
<v Speaker 2>growth will come out and the brown flowers will kind
<v Speaker 2>of be in the middle of it.
<v Speaker 1>It'll become obvious, it'll.
<v Speaker 2>Become obvious, they won't look great. You can either snap
<v Speaker 2>them out then or just leave it and just you know,
<v Speaker 2>kind of have the mix. But it's it's not a
<v Speaker 2>plant health issue. This is more of a human enjoyment
<v Speaker 2>aesthetics kind of issue. So with that in mind, know
<v Speaker 2>that it's not imperative, Know that you kind of have
<v Speaker 2>to balance I think for yourself, what's the bigger risk
<v Speaker 2>that I'm going to possibly make a mistake here and
<v Speaker 2>cut off flower buds and not have colorful flowers in
<v Speaker 2>the summer, or that I don't do anything now and
<v Speaker 2>I just have some brown, old flowers kind of stuck
<v Speaker 2>in the middle of my plant that hey, maybe the
<v Speaker 2>growth is and is going to hide anyway. So it's
<v Speaker 2>always an optional type of approach. And hey, we still
<v Speaker 2>have a couple more weeks of winter, so there's still
<v Speaker 2>a strunk chance nature is going to take care of
<v Speaker 2>this for you. With the wild weather ahead in March,
<v Speaker 2>we're going to take a time any break right now,
<v Speaker 2>and then we're going to come back and talk to
<v Speaker 2>you more about seed starting, so stay tuned. Thanks for
<v Speaker 2>listening to the Gardening Simplified Podcast, brought to you by
<v Speaker 2>Proven Winners Color Choice Shrubs. Our award winning flowering shrubs
<v Speaker 2>and evergreens are trialed and tested by experts with your
<v Speaker 2>success in mind. Learn more at Proven Winners color Choice
<v Speaker 2>dot com.
<v Speaker 1>Welcome back to the Gardening Simplified Show. As we talk
<v Speaker 1>about seed starting today, Stacey, I promised we'd talk a
<v Speaker 1>little bit about wildflower seeds, so let me do that
<v Speaker 1>so I don't forget, and that is, if you're going
<v Speaker 1>to grow a bed of wildflowers in your landscape, in
<v Speaker 1>your yard, I do think, my personal opinion that site
<v Speaker 1>preparation is important. In other words, if you are able
<v Speaker 1>to remove some of the existing weeds and grass which
<v Speaker 1>are going to compete with the wildflower seed, it's a
<v Speaker 1>good thing to do. And if you do cultivate that area,
<v Speaker 1>don't cultivate it deeply, maybe just a few inches deep,
<v Speaker 1>because you don't want to bring dormant weed seed up
<v Speaker 1>to the surface. As far as the seed mixture is concerned.
<v Speaker 1>Of course, just like if you're buying grass seed the
<v Speaker 1>front of the bag is pretty and it looks fabulous,
<v Speaker 1>and it's marketing, but read the back of the package
<v Speaker 1>and see what the actual contents are that you're putting
<v Speaker 1>down in your landscape. Mix the seeds with dry sand
<v Speaker 1>at a ratio of one part seed to eight parts sand.
<v Speaker 1>That's going to aid in the distribution. As you scatter
<v Speaker 1>the seed in hand in two batches, one maybe walking
<v Speaker 1>north and south and then the other east to west
<v Speaker 1>for maximum coverage. You want soil contact, but you don't
<v Speaker 1>want to bury the seeds deeply because many of them
<v Speaker 1>are going to need light to germinate. And then lightly
<v Speaker 1>press them into the soil, and there's a variety of
<v Speaker 1>ways that you can do that, including with a roller,
<v Speaker 1>keeping the soil consistently moist for two to three weeks
<v Speaker 1>until germination, and then watering occasionally. So again, wildflower seeds Stacy,
<v Speaker 1>I find for a lot of people have high interest
<v Speaker 1>in it. I think you get what you pay for.
<v Speaker 1>So read the back of that package and then at
<v Speaker 1>least initially give them a fighting chance against the grasses
<v Speaker 1>and weeds that they're going to be competing.
<v Speaker 2>Yeah, for sure, And you know, I would say in
<v Speaker 2>terms of selection, that was all great advice, but a
<v Speaker 2>lot of people believe that the wildflower mixes that are
<v Speaker 2>for sale in stores are actual wildflowers i e. Native plants,
<v Speaker 2>and they very often or not, they're just wildflower vibes.
<v Speaker 2>So if you're really trying I like that. So, if
<v Speaker 2>you're really trying to grow wildflowers to establish a native
<v Speaker 2>plant garden, a pollinator garden, you do really need to
<v Speaker 2>make sure that you are buying from a reputable source
<v Speaker 2>that is intended for that. And there are so many
<v Speaker 2>excellent seed suppliers out there, especially here in the Midwest,
<v Speaker 2>that put together some excellent, excellent mixes that you can
<v Speaker 2>trust to actually of tract pollinators. So yeah, do be
<v Speaker 2>careful if.
<v Speaker 1>You're looking to put some grass seed down. I just
<v Speaker 1>want to mention briefly that again my personal opinion is
<v Speaker 1>fall is the best time of the year to put
<v Speaker 1>down grass seed for a number of reasons. You don't
<v Speaker 1>have the competition with crab grass seed that is trying
<v Speaker 1>to germinate and bring. The temperatures start to cool infall,
<v Speaker 1>but the soil is warm, so for great success as
<v Speaker 1>it relates to grasses, I still believe that period of
<v Speaker 1>August September is the ideal time to do it now
<v Speaker 1>in the first segments they see. As far as seeds
<v Speaker 1>indoors are concerned, you mentioned using potting soil. There are
<v Speaker 1>great seeds starting mixes. They tend to be very very lightweight,
<v Speaker 1>almost like dust. Don't sneeze. So my recommendation is, don't
<v Speaker 1>just throw that seed starting soil into the pots or
<v Speaker 1>trays where you're going to do your seed starting. Hydrate
<v Speaker 1>it first. Doesn't have to be saturated, but hydrate it first,
<v Speaker 1>then do your seed sowing, and then water from the base.
<v Speaker 1>I think that that will work really well. And if
<v Speaker 1>you use a water soluble fertilizer, once the seed has terminated,
<v Speaker 1>the plants are growing and you need to add a
<v Speaker 1>little whether it's the worm castings or a water soluble fertilizer,
<v Speaker 1>do it at a week a week strength. They're not
<v Speaker 1>gonna need a lot of NPK shit.
<v Speaker 2>And their roots are very delicate and they're tiny, little
<v Speaker 2>dental flush roots. The other thing I would say, very
<v Speaker 2>often seed starting mixes and potting mix like I use
<v Speaker 2>are high in peat moss. If peat moss is very dry,
<v Speaker 2>it is very difficult to wet, but it wets well
<v Speaker 2>with warm or boiling water. Of course, if you're using
<v Speaker 2>boiling water, do this hours ahead of time so you're
<v Speaker 2>not trying to deal with, you know, steaming hot soil
<v Speaker 2>or seed mix. But yeah, if you use warm water,
<v Speaker 2>that will wet a heavy peat mix far easier than cold,
<v Speaker 2>our room temperature water. And yeah, I definitely recommend that
<v Speaker 2>you thoroughly saturate the mix before you plant the seeds.
<v Speaker 2>So what I do is I wet the mix, pack
<v Speaker 2>it into my containers, or I really I put it
<v Speaker 2>in my cans, Wet the mix, push it down, tamp
<v Speaker 2>it down so it's not firm, you know, it's not
<v Speaker 2>like totally compacted, but it's firm, and then then I'll
<v Speaker 2>put the seeds on top of that, usually sprinkle some
<v Speaker 2>over there, some soil over that. It depends. And then
<v Speaker 2>I use a very cool, very old fashioned contraption called
<v Speaker 2>a thumb pot to water my seedlings. And it's a
<v Speaker 2>very neat thing. It is. It's an enclosed kind of
<v Speaker 2>vessel with holes in the bottom and then a little
<v Speaker 2>hole at the top, and when you put your thumb
<v Speaker 2>over it, it creates pressure and the water doesn't come off,
<v Speaker 2>but when you lift your thumb, the water comes out
<v Speaker 2>at the bottom. It does it very gently. It's a
<v Speaker 2>very easy tool to use over delicate seedlings. I also
<v Speaker 2>sometimes will just use a spray bottle, you know, like
<v Speaker 2>a regular water spray bottle, and just really kind of
<v Speaker 2>concentrate that at the site where the seed is. But yeah,
<v Speaker 2>you know, gentleness in all aspects for those first couple
<v Speaker 2>of weeks to ending on the plant is so so crucial.
<v Speaker 1>Yeah, so many things to think about gentleness. Once these
<v Speaker 1>start to grow and we get closer to spring, we're
<v Speaker 1>going to have the whole hardening off process that's going
<v Speaker 1>to have to take place. I had mentioned using the
<v Speaker 1>sphagnum moss. I use that to sprinkle it over the top.
<v Speaker 1>But I'm glad you brought up the boiling water. Some
<v Speaker 1>people will use the boiling water for the aspect of
<v Speaker 1>dealing with fungus nack.
<v Speaker 2>Yes, oh yeah, you know, And I think you talked
<v Speaker 2>a bit about damping off. You talked about fungus nats here.
<v Speaker 2>I would say, if either of those is a consistent
<v Speaker 2>problem for you, you're probably watering too much. And it could
<v Speaker 2>be a combination of too much water or not enough
<v Speaker 2>air circulation because Yeah, when I do my seeds. When
<v Speaker 2>I'm growing seeds indoors, I always have a fan running
<v Speaker 2>as long as my light is on. I have the
<v Speaker 2>light in the fan on the same timer. And that
<v Speaker 2>makes all the difference because not only is it helping
<v Speaker 2>the air circulate so fungus can't really grow, it makes
<v Speaker 2>for much much stronger seedlings as well. But you know,
<v Speaker 2>I think there's a super important element of timing here,
<v Speaker 2>because again I've been there. You just think you got
<v Speaker 2>to get out there and sow some seed, and the
<v Speaker 2>extra time is going to help. It doesn't. It's still
<v Speaker 2>stressful for these most of these plants to be growing indoors.
<v Speaker 2>And so if I would not start tomato seeds personally
<v Speaker 2>much more than six weeks before May, so, like I said,
<v Speaker 2>I usually start the first week of April is kind
<v Speaker 2>of my seed starting week. I usually do peppers and tomatoes,
<v Speaker 2>mostly because those are the things that I'm looking for
<v Speaker 2>that I might not be able to find the varieties
<v Speaker 2>that I want in store. Very easy to do, but yeah,
<v Speaker 2>I mean, if you start them too early, they are
<v Speaker 2>going to be so stressed by the time it's ready
<v Speaker 2>to go outside that they will actually be set back,
<v Speaker 2>and I'm speaking from experience. So if you are itching
<v Speaker 2>to get some seed planted, I totally get it. Stand
<v Speaker 2>but do this. Go ahead and scratch the itch. Plant
<v Speaker 2>some seed now, but don't plan at all. Do another
<v Speaker 2>sewing in early April, and then come back and let
<v Speaker 2>us know which of those seedlings is doing better by
<v Speaker 2>the time you actually get to planting them outside. It's
<v Speaker 2>one of those things you have to learn for yourself.
<v Speaker 2>It was something I had to learn for myself. So
<v Speaker 2>if you if you don't want to take my word
<v Speaker 2>for it, I get it. That's cool. But at least
<v Speaker 2>do the experiment yourself and you will become a believer.
<v Speaker 1>I agree, And I would add a little twist to it.
<v Speaker 1>I'd tickle your seedlings, my opinion, little paint brush. Tickle
<v Speaker 1>them a little bit of air movement. You mentioned a fan. Yeah,
<v Speaker 1>because air movement's important. I think you get stronger seedlings.
<v Speaker 2>Oh, definitely, because you know, when a plant is growing outdoors,
<v Speaker 2>it is getting wind, it is getting you know, a
<v Speaker 2>rabbit hopping by, and bugs and all of this other
<v Speaker 2>stuff going on that does help it to you know,
<v Speaker 2>develop that ability to withstand that movement and indoors that's
<v Speaker 2>not really happy and at least not in any kind
<v Speaker 2>of level that makes a difference. So that's why I
<v Speaker 2>religiously keep a fan on my seedlings basically as soon
<v Speaker 2>as they've germinated.
<v Speaker 1>The other super important thing for these seedlings light. We
<v Speaker 1>need light. As I mentioned, the ambient light into the
<v Speaker 1>room is not going to be enough, so in many
<v Speaker 1>cases we add artificial light. There are so many great
<v Speaker 1>fixtures available today that you can order online. LED fixtures.
<v Speaker 1>My advice is this, look at the lumens, the intensity
<v Speaker 1>or brightness, and you're going to aim for about three
<v Speaker 1>thousand lumens for optimal growth. And then you'll see the
<v Speaker 1>letter K. This is kelvin. It mimics daylight. And if
<v Speaker 1>we want to mimic daylight, we're looking about we're looking
<v Speaker 1>at somewhere between five thousand to six thousand and five
<v Speaker 1>hundred kelvin or K to mimic that daylight.
<v Speaker 2>All right, Well, you know the great thing about these
<v Speaker 2>LED lights they are affordable to buy and they're a
<v Speaker 2>afordable to run. They use so much less energy than
<v Speaker 2>the old ones, so you know, no longer is having
<v Speaker 2>a good grow light something that just crazy obsessed gardeners do.
<v Speaker 2>It's something that's accessible and usable for all of us.
<v Speaker 1>And don't rely on the Christmas lights that you haven't
<v Speaker 1>taken down.
<v Speaker 2>Yeah, don't, don't do that. So I hope that gives
<v Speaker 2>you some food for thought as you think about starting
<v Speaker 2>your seeds this season. In the meantime, thank you Rick,
<v Speaker 2>thank you Stace, thank you Adriana, and thanks so much
<v Speaker 2>to all of you. We truly appreciate you listening or watching,
<v Speaker 2>and hope you have a wonderful week ahead.