Eponymous Foods – Sandwiches Edition

Stuff You Missed in History Class

Sloppy Joe, Hot Brown, and the Reuben are all well-known sandwiches, and they are all named after people. Though the specific person is argued in two of these cases. 

Research:

  • “Bechamel.” Oxford Reference. https://www.oxfordreference.com/display/10.1093/oi/authority.20110803095454669
  • “Bechamel Sauce.” ChefIn. https://chefin.com.au/dictionary/bechamel-sauce/#:~:text=History%20of%20b%C3%A9chamel%20sauce,(wife%20of%20Henry%20II).
  • Beck, Katherine. “The Controversial Origins Of The Sloppy Joe.” Tasting Table. Jan. 26, 2023. https://www.tastingtable.com/968736/the-controversial-origins-of-the-sloppy-joe/
  • Blitz, Matt. “The True Story of Ernest Hemingway’s Favorite Bar. Food & Wine. June 22, 2017. https://www.foodandwine.com/travel/bars/ernest-hemingway-favorite-bar-true-story
  • Fix, John. “Papa Wrote Here.” The Miami News. May 12, 1962. https://www.newspapers.com/image/302005791/?terms=sloppy%20joe&match=1
  • “Hot Brown Sandwich History and Recipe.” What’s Cooking America. https://whatscookingamerica.net/history/sandwiches/hotbrownsandwich.htm
  • “The Brown Hotel.” Historic Hotels of America. https://www.historichotels.org/us/hotels-resorts/the-brown-hotel/history.php#:~:text=In%20the%20early%201980s%2C%20the,obtained%20the%20building%20in%202006.
  • “J. Graham Brown.” The Courier-Journal. August 8, 1927. https://www.newspapers.com/image/107676260/?terms=%22james%20graham%20brown%22&match=1
  • Kral, George. “How the Gooey, Cheesy Hot Brown Became a Kentucky Icon.” Eater. Jan. 3, 2019. https://www.eater.com/2019/1/3/18165719/kentucky-hot-brown-history-recipe-brown-hotel-louisville
  • “LOUISVILLE’S CULINARY ICON, THE HOT BROWN.” The Brown Hotel. https://www.brownhotel.com/dining/hot-brown
  • Manoff, Arnold. “Reuben and His Restaurant: The Lore of a Sandwich.” Federal Writers Project. 1938. https://www.loc.gov/item/wpalh001447/
  • Martinelli, Katherine. “True to Its Design, the Origin of the Reuben Sandwich Is Messy, Too.” Eat This, Not That! January 16, 2019. https://www.eatthis.com/reuben-sandwich-origin/
  • Matte, Lisa Curran. “The Hotly Contested Origin Of The Reuben Sandwich.” Tasting Table. Nov. 13, 2022. https://www.tastingtable.com/1095929/the-hotly-contested-origin-of-the-reuben-sandwich
  • Monaco, Emily. “The Untold Truth of Sloppy Joes.” Mashed. March 28, 2023. https://www.mashed.com/270915/the-untold-truth-of-sloppy-joes/
  • “National Sloppy Joe Day.” National Day Calendar. https://www.nationaldaycalendar.com/national-day/national-sloppy-joe-day-march-18
  • Ngo, Hope. “What Is Béchamel Sauce And What Is It Used For?” Mashed. June 2, 2021. https://www.mashed.com/413609/what-is-bechamel-sauce-and-what-is-it-used-for/
  • “Pizza Sauce Brings Italian Food to Your Table.” The Sacramento Bee. Dec. 16, 1970. https://www.newspapers.com/image/619758051/?terms=sloppy%20joe&match=1
  • “Philanthropist J. Graham Brown Dies.” The Courier-Journal. March 31, 1969. https://www.newspapers.com/image/109504942/?terms=%22james%20graham%20brown%22&match=1
  • Ramsey, Sarah. “The History of the Kentucky Hot Brown Sandwich.” Wide Open Country. July 19, 2019. https://www.wideopencountry.com/the-history-of-the-kentucky-hot-brown-sandwich/
  • Ramsey, Sarah “Where did the Sloppy Joe come from?” Wide Open Country. May 19, 2020. https://www.wideopencountry.com/sloppy-joe/
  • Scotti, Ippolita Douglas. “Was bechamelle really French, or an ancient Florentine sauce?” Flapper Press. March 6, 2019. https://www.flapperpress.com/post/was-bechamelle-really-french-or-an-ancient-florentine-sauce
  • Senyei, Kelly. “Inside the Home of the Hot Brown Sandwich.” Epicurious. April 4, 2013. https://www.epicurious.com/expert-advice/hot-brown-sandwich-tips
  • Singer, Phyllis. “Sloppy joes have chapter in food history.” The Courier. June 19, 1992. https://www.newspapers.com/image/359626043/?terms=sloppy%20joe&match=1
  • “Sloppy Joe’s Cocktails Manual.” 1932. Havana, Cuba. Accessed online: https://euvs-vintage-cocktail-books.cld.bz/1932-Sloppy-Joe-s/II
  • “Sloppy Joe History: The Origins of this Iconic Comfort Food.” Blue Apron. https://blog.blueapron.com/a-history-of-the-sloppy-jo/#:~:text=The%20Sloppy%20Joe's%20history%2C%20however,and%20the%20sandwich's%20official%20name.
  • Taliaferro, Georgianna. “Sloppy Joe’s: From Behind the Bar.” The Virginian-Pilot. March 12, 1950. https://www.newspapers.com/image/845602519/?terms=sloppy%20joe&match=1
  • Town Hall Delicatessen. https://townhalldeli.com/
  • Valdes, Rosa Tania. “Once Havana's most famous bar, Sloppy Joe's reopens after 50 years.” Reuters. April 12, 2013. https://www.reuters.com/article/us-cuba-sloppyjoes-idUSBRE93B18620130412/
  • “Was the Reuben Sandwich invented in Omaha?” History Nebraska. https://history.nebraska.gov/was-the-reuben-sandwich-invented-in-omaha/
  • Weil, Elizabeth. “My Grandfather Invented the Reuben Sandwich. Right?” New York Times. June 7, 2013. https://www.nytimes.com/2013/06/09/magazine/my-grandfather-invented-the-reuben-sandwich-right.html
  • Weil, Elizabeth. “Who really invented the Reuben?” Saveur. Sept. 6, 2016. https://www.saveur.com/reuben-sandwich-origin-history/
  • Wenz, Rod. “Louisville, State to Reap Benefits of Brown Legacy.” The Courier-Journal. April 10, 1969. https://www.newspapers.com/image/109539070/?terms=%22james%20graham%20brown%22&match=1

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2024-03-04 31 min Transcript

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Transcript

00:00:01
Speaker 1: Welcome to Stuff You Missed in History Class, a production of iHeartRadio. Hello, and welcome to the podcast. I'm Holly Frye.

00:00:14
Speaker 2: And I'm Tracy V. Wilson.

00:00:16
Speaker 1: So I was traveling with some friends recently, and while some of us were chatting one evening, one of them mentioned that they really liked the eponymous foods episodes and they were like, it has been a minute since you did one, and I was like, okay, So here we are today. We're going to talk about sandwiches. So get ready to maybe get hungry, depending on what your feelings are right on what you like any of these sandwiches. We're covering three sandwiches. The first is one I do not like, the second sandwich I love, and the third is my favorite sandwich of all time. It goes in the Holly Fry Sandwich Hall of Fame as the best one. So we're starting with Sloppy Joe's. Those are very popular in the United States for some reason, which probably reveals my feeling about Sloppy Joe's. We share an opinion on Sloppy joe We could talk about it Friday. There are contested origin stories about this dish being invented here in the US, but one version places its origin outside the United States. This is a sandwich that, as its name suggests, is messy by nature. It typically features ground beef mixed with some kind of a tomato sauce, and then that mix is usually served on a hamburger bun. And there are lots of variations and way to improvise with this.

00:01:39
Speaker 2: Seasons can change up the.

00:01:40
Speaker 1: Flavor a lot, and some folks like to add things like onion or other minced vegetables. And three different places claim the sloppy joe as their own. There's Sioux City, Iowa, Key West, Florida, and Havana, Cuba. There's also a New Jersey honorable mention that we will talk about. Yeah, that's not incidentally the order we're going to talk about them in. But it makes sense that the sloppy Joe pops up in the United States in cooking in the nineteen thirties because this was a time when money was very tight. As a consequence, expensive ingredients like meat had to be stretched. So meat loaf had been around since the late eighteen hundreds, but the need to find ways to make protein sources go farther in the nineteen thirties during the depression, led both restaurateurs and home cooks to get a little bit creative with ingredients mixed into meat to fillip hungry stomachs. This also harkens back to our episode on Augusta Scofie, who similarly found ways to stretch available ingredients in the field when he was an army cook and then when he was a chef during World War One and had to figure out how to run his luxury kitchen at the Savway Hotel in London without things like butter. We're going to start with the non US origin story for the Sloppy Joe, though, because it informs one of the other this starts not with a man named Joe, but rather Jose. Jose abili Otero was born in Spain in eighteen hundreds. He moved to Cuba in nineteen oh four and started working as a bartender in Havana. He worked there for three years and then moved to New Orleans, Louisiana, once again found.

00:03:20
Speaker 2: Work at a bar.

00:03:21
Speaker 1: Right around nineteen thirteen, he moved south again to Miami, Florida, worked in a variety of establishments until nineteen eighteen, and then back to Cuba. After working for a bar and cafe in Havana called the Greasy Spoon for a few months, Jose decided he would rather work for himself than someone else, so he bought a grocery store that also had a cafe and bar. That's a pretty standard setup, and according to Jose's accounts, when one of his friends from the US came to visit him in his new establishment, that friend said, quote, why Joe, this place is certainly sloppy. Look at the filthy water running from under the counter. And from then on he was known as Sloppy Joe. He seemed to embrace the idea of being known for having a messy business, so much so that he renamed the place Sloppy Joe's. In case you, like me, are wondering where that gross water was coming from, it was melting ice. Jose served a variety of seafood items in his grocery. He had fresh seafood set out on ice, and as that seafood ice melted, it slushed to the floor and made kind of a mess. In nineteen thirty two, the Havana Sloppy Joe's Bar released a cocktails manual so that people could make the drinks from their cocktail menu at home, and in that manual there is a brief biography of Jose Abielioterro, who is shown in a photograph portrait at the front of the book with the nickname Sloppy Joe written under it. In the years of operation of Sloppy Joe's, Jose added a lot of touches to the place, including famously a sixty foot long bar. Early in the Sloppy Joe establishment's history there was a sand which called a Sloppy Joe on the menu, and this was apparently a carry around version of either roba vieha or piccadillo. Rope a vieha is made with shredded meats, tomato, sauce, and various spices. Usually this is something you would eat with a fork, but Jose put it on bread. Piccadillo is a similar dish made with a ground beef, although it often has a lot of other ingredients, but if you put it on bread or a bun, does kind of sound like the Sloppy Joe sandwich. And a lot of people from the US started visiting Havana during prohibition so they could get a drink and enjoy the climate, and there were often celebrities lined up along that sixty foot bar. One famous figure who loved Sloppy Joe's Bar and sandwich was Ernest Hemingway, so much so that he figured into the Key West version of the sandwich origin story. When Hemingway was in Key West he lived there for I think a dozen years, he convinced another bar, the Silver Slipper, to rename itself Sloppy Joe's and put the sandwich on the menu. The Silver Slipper was owned by a man named Joe Russell, so the name Sloppy Joe kind of fit again for someone who is cool with being called sloppy, and he went for the idea. Joe Russell had also been to Havana with Hemingway on a number of trips, so it wasn't as though the author had to explain to Joe Russell who Sloppy Joe was or what a Sloppy Joe's Sandwich was. Russell seems to have pretty readily understood the appeal of both of these things, and that informed his decision to change his establishment's name. The Key West Sloppy Joe's did not really claim to have invented the sandwich exactly. It still acknowledged the Cuban origins, but it did claim to have perfected it, inventing the American version. You can find out for yourself if you're ever in the area, because it is still open and the sloppy Joe sandwich is still on the menu, so you can decide if you think that's perfect or not. The third contender for the invention of the sloppy Joe is a diner cook named Joe. This is the version that's associated with Sioux City, Iowa, at the Old Tavern Inn. This version has roots in another Midwest sandwich called the loose meat sandwich. And this is kind of like a burger in that it's made with ground beef or chopped meat, but it's not formed into a patty.

00:07:24
Speaker 2: And the cook named Joe. None of the Sioux.

00:07:26
Speaker 1: City stories that Holly found included a last name, added tomato, sauce, and some spices, and in what sometimes gets called a tavern sandwich. Joe's creation became very popular with locals and its reputation spread. Yeah, there are still places that will call a sloppy Joe a tavern sandwich.

00:07:46
Speaker 2: In the Midwest.

00:07:48
Speaker 1: So the location that we're going to offer as an honorable mention in this is town Hall Deli in Maplewood, New Jersey. Apparently in the nineteen thirties, the mayor of Maplewood visited the Havana Sloppy Joe's and had the sandwich there and then asked the owner of the town Hall Deli to make it based on his description. That version, according to the Townhall Deli website, featured quote coleslaw ham cow tongue, Swiss cheese with lots of dressing, and was served on thin rye bread. That doesn't really sound very much like a Sloppy Joe or Ropa vieha or piccadillo. Town Hall Deli still exists. It has a variety of what they call Sloppy Jo's on the menu, although to me they all sounded more like sliced meat deli sandwiches than a sauteed ground meat cooked with a tomato sauce. So which of these stories is the real one? Maybe all of them. It's completely possible that different people had a similar idea around the same time, And there's also a secondary aspect of the Sloppy Joe story and that's the idea of canned sauce and convenience foods. For a lot of home cooks in the post World War two United States, products like Sloppy Jo sauce offered a shortcut to making tomato sauce from scratch, while also being malleable enough to doctor up into a more unique recipe. ConAgra Foods and Hunts introduced the Manwich canned Sloppy Jo sauce in nineteen sixty nine. It's pretty easy to find write ups of papers in the nineteen seventies about how home cooks might use sloppy Jo sauce. One from the Sacramento Bee that ran on December sixteenth, nineteen seventy reads and our apologies here to Italian listeners quote. A passport is not needed to bring a profusion of Italian inspired foods to your family table. A ready assistant is the new canned Sloppy Jo pizza, sauce and beef, which lends itself easily to spooning on burger buns, topping spaghetti, or making a fast version of lasagna. The write up goes on to share a recipe called Presto Lasagna was made with sloppy jo sauce and cottage cheese. I have feelings schools have often included Sloppy Joe's in cafeterias for the reason we mentioned earlier. It's cost effective and it enables kitchens to serve more meals with less meat. I also read one note where someone had interviewed someone who was in charge of decisions, such as, you know what gets served in a school cafeteria, and she was like, we also sneak vegetables in there, and the kids don't know, which I think a lot of parents do as well, So perhaps the nostalgia of meals like this eton as a kid has contributed to the survival of the.

00:10:37
Speaker 2: Sloppy Joe over the decades.

00:10:39
Speaker 1: The Havana Slappy Joe's Bar closed in the nineteen sixties during the Castro regime, but in two thousand and seven the Office of the Historian of Havana started a restoration of this fabled watering hole as part of a larger effort to restore Havana's old city, and after six years of work, it reopened in twenty thirteen.

00:10:59
Speaker 2: Now you can visit if you are in.

00:11:00
Speaker 1: Cuba, and I will talk about it on the behind the scenes because I have some quizzical dog question marks about reviews of it. We are coming up on National Sloppy Joe Day. If you're in the US, it's March eighteen, So if you love them, go ahead and start making your plans. In the meantime, we're gonna pause for a sponsor break, and when we're back, we will talk about a sandwich with a Kentucky origin story. If you have never had a sandwich called a hot brown, you are in for a rich savor retreat. It's an open faced sandwich that's piled with roast turkey, bacon, pimentos or tomatoes, and mornaise sauce. Mornaise sauce is our good friend beschamel, but with Parmesan, romano or greere cheese added to it, or sometimes combinations of those cheeses. Occasionally you might find other cheeses blended in, depending on who makes it. And once that sauce has spread a across the top of the sandwich, the whole thing is broiled so the cheese gets bubbly, and then it served.

00:12:05
Speaker 2: As the name.

00:12:05
Speaker 1: Indicates, hot, it is sometimes described as similar to Welsh rare bit, although the main similarity is really just that it's open faced and broiled, because there isn't a whole lot of overlapping ingredients. Beyond that, the cheeses are different. The hot Brown is named for the hotel where it was invented, which was named for the businessman who built it. That's James Graham Brown. Brown was born in eighteen eighty one in Madison, Indiana. He attended public school, then went to Hanover College and Purdue University. The Brown family moved to Kentucky in nineteen oh three, and as a young man, Brown went to work with his father in the lumber business. Their eastern Kentucky operation grew over time, and at thirty seven, Brown became the president of W. P. Brown and Sons Lumber Company. Lumber was not the only business that Brown worked in, and over the years he became one of lieu of the Kentucky's most prominent businessmen, particularly through the many construction projects named for him. In nineteen twenty three, he built the Brown Hotel over the course of ten months at a cost of four million dollars on the corner of Fourth and Broadway. He was inspired in this project by another Louisville hotel's success that was the Seal Box, and Brown thought he could challenge the Sealbox dominance as the luxury o hotel of downtown, and he was right. The style of the Brown Hotel is Georgian revival. It had sixteen floors and it opened on October twenty fifth, nineteen twenty three. British Prime Minister David Lloyd George was the first person to sign the guest register. The Brown Hotel quickly became the center of Louisville's social and cultural scene, and Jay Graham Brown expanded his downtown presence by also building a theater nearby. Eventually they also erected a medical facility and an office building and a church. Since Brown lived in the hotel, he'd essentially built everything that he could need within walking distance. At night, in the hotel ballroom, a band would play dinner dances from ten pm to one am for the late night crowd, and often there were more than one thousand people there on any givena evening. This also is where the hot Brown was born. So after the late night dancers had been entertained for a couple of hours, the band would take a break, typically right around midnight, and The hotel restaurants also stayed open late, so the party crowd would saunter into those to order a snack before the last set of the evening was played. This was a very popular cycle of entertainment, and it brought the hotel a lot of business in food sales for a while. After a few years, the sameness of the way the dance evenings that the Brown Hotel played out left the city's nightlighte a little boared, so business started to wane.

00:14:57
Speaker 2: There were a couple of versions of how the hot Brown.

00:15:00
Speaker 1: Sandwich was invented in this moment of lag in nineteen twenty six and what led to its creation. One is that there was concern about guests having grown tired of the menu, so the need was seen for something new. Another is that the executive chef, Fred Schmidt, was just tired of sending out plates of club sandwiches and scrambled eggs and ham to his late night diners and wanted to make something new. Seems possible or even likely that both of these were factors.

00:15:33
Speaker 2: Yeah.

00:15:34
Speaker 1: If you read accounts by people that were involved in the whole thing, some of them put it one way and some put it the other.

00:15:39
Speaker 2: And I think probably both are the case.

00:15:41
Speaker 1: The choices of ingredients for the sandwich were informed, according to legend, by time of year. It was winter, which meant that the hotel had turkey on hand because of holiday celebrations. It's said that putting it on sandwiches was kind of a novel idea, as the poultry was normally reserved for more formal holiday meals. Rudy Suck, who managed the Brown Hotel during the time the Hot Brown was invented, told the story as a somewhat collaborative effort, noting that he thought the initial plan sounded quote a little flat, before Chef Schmidt said that he would put it under the broiler to bubble the.

00:16:18
Speaker 2: Cheese in the sauce.

00:16:20
Speaker 1: The mader D's initial reaction to a stack of turkey on bread with a white sauce was that it needed a little color. To add that splash of color, the bacon and pimentoes were added, although over time the hotel's version shifted away from pimentoes to tomatoes. The dish quickly became popular. It's remained a staple of Louisville and the Brown Hotel, with a few gaps that we will talk about for a century. James Graham Brown died in nineteen sixty nine, and his legacy is a little bit of a mixed bag. He was documented as being very anti union and pretty racist. He did, not, for example, want Kentucky to segregate, and he publicly stated that if a union were to form at his hotel, he would sell the whole thing. He also, though, gave generously to charity, and when he died with no next of kin, after having lived for decades in a small suite at the hotel, he left his one hundred million dollar estate to the people of the city, having arranged for numerous charities and public works projects to be funded long term from his fortune, with the wording of his will indicating that the money was to be used to promote the well being of the citizens and bring recognition to both Louisville and the rest of the state. His foundation is still in operation. It uses funds to invest in a variety of organizations to promote economic prosperity, education, and quality of life. After Brown's death, the hotel that had become a foundation of the downtown scene of the city faltered. It ultimately closed in nineteen seventy two and was sold to the Jefferson County Public School System, which used it as an office space for the Bard of Education until it was purchased, refurbished, and reopened as a Hilton hotel in nineteen eighty four. Then it passed to the Camberly Hotel Company. Today, it's managed by the eighteen fifty nine Historic Hotels Group, and it's on the National Register of Historic Places. The Brown Hotel today will happily serve you a hot brown almost anywhere on the premises. The hotel, restaurants and bar have it on the menu. You can have one brought to you via room service. If you don't eat meat, there is a vegetarian version available. I think it uses mushrooms as well as a smaller sized version of the original for anybody who finds the rich dish too filling to eat a full size order. The Brown Hotel says that typically they sell about a thousand hot browns each week, although during the Kentucky Derby it is usually more like three hundred each day and sometimes even higher. The hotel also shares its recipe for the original hot brown on its website, revealing that the more NAIs sauce served there does not include greere, or at least it seems that way. The actual mornaise sauce recipe used in the kitchen of the brown remains a secret. The official recipe does also call for the crust to be cut off of the toast. Incidentally, there are other sandwiches that are very similar to the Hot Brown, particularly a Saint Louis dish called a Prosperity sandwich. The Prosperity is almost identical but adds ham. It's also popped up in the nineteen twenties. Yeah, it's believed that this is definitely a take on the Hot Brown.

00:19:33
Speaker 2: Nobody thinks that Saint Louis invented it.

00:19:36
Speaker 1: And also, as a coda here, we mentioned two sauces in this discussion that also qualify as eponymous food. So we'll give you very brief explainers for these. First off, Bechamel. It is named for Louis de Bechamel, Marquis de Montell, who was the matra of the Duke d'Orleans in the seventeenth century. He's believed to have had a hand in its creation, or more specifically, altering and existing cream sauce recipe. But that is argued by aficionados of Italian cooking history because bechamel is the same thing as a Tuscan sauce that preceded it, known as salsa koya, which is glue sauce. The Italian origin story credits Catherine de Medici with bringing the recipe to France. The other sauce we mentioned was Mournee, which uses bechamel as a base. Morne sauce has uncertainty regarding its naming attribution. It's usually noted as having been named after Philippe, the Duke de Mournai, but that has been argued because he died in the sixteen hundreds, which was long before Mornai sauce showed up in the early nineteenth century, so it's possible that this was named for someone else. There are a number of possible mornaise no evidence that they specifically inspired the sauce. Yeah, there are definitely people where someone goes, hey, this is a Mornee that was a fairly prominent person at the time this sauce pops up, but there's never really a clear indicator that they had any involvement in it. It is almost time for my favorite sandwich segment, but first, we are going to hear from some of the sponsors that keep stuff you missed in history class going. All right, it's time for a contentious one and the most delicious one. The origin of this is either New York or Nebraska, and either way, the ruben is made with corned beef, souer kraut, Swiss cheese, and Thousand Island dressing on rye bread. It's usually pressed or grilled. It is a poem of sandwich perfection. In my book, I love this sandwich so much so. The first contender that we're going to talk about as the origin is Ruben's Restaurant and Delicatessen in New York, which was opened by a man named Arnold Ruben. Arnold was of German Jewish ancestry. He was born in Germany in eighteen eighty five. Teen thirties, the US Works Progress Administration launched the Federal Writers Project, Folklore Project Life Histories, and from nineteen thirty six to nineteen thirty nine they collected stories for people about their lives. Arnold Ruben gave his story on December eighteenth, nineteen thirty eight. Arnold Manoff conducted the interview and also provided additional text that contextualizes who the interviewee is. Manoff's description of the restaurant reads as follows quote. The restaurant can be briefly described as an interior near Fifth Avenue designed to resemble the lounge room of the Radio City Music Hall. Soft light, subdued lighting, rich carpeting, and mister Ruben's stuffed fish mounted around the walls, a small bar near the checkroom, and a delicatess encounter in the back. More detailed, this is the impression you get of Rubens. You're walking up fifty eighth Street toward Fifth Avenue. Suddenly the wall of ricktier left is ended, and the periphery of your eye catches a huge pane of glass curtained in cream folds and shrubberied formally. At the bottom, a red blazing neon sprawls over the window. Rubens typical. This is Rubens. Who is Ruben? That his name should stand alone, without a word of explanation, without even a first name, without a company or ink after it. Well, all right, Ruben, twenty five feet long, five feet high, on fifty eighth Street, right next to the Savoy Plaza, the Sherry Netherland nearby Central Park, the Old Plaza Fifth Avenue nearby Park Avenue a ritzy restaurant if you judge by what you can't see from the outside. The form that manaf filled out lists under Ruben's special skills and interests, and this charmed me to pieces quote special skill at concocting sandwiches, interested in fishing. The form also described our as healthy and alive in the Broadway nervous tempo manner. Arnold's statements and man Off talks about how he got started as a peddler as a kid and eventually became the father of the sandwich. He described the origin of the sandwich quote, Well, I'll tell you about how I got the sandwich idea. I owned a delicatessen on Broadway, and one day a dame walks in, one of the theatrical dames, and she's down and out, I suppose, and she asked me for something to eat. Her name was Anna Silos. Well, I'm feeling sort of good, so I figure I'll clown around for the dame. That's how it all came about. I'm clouning for the dame. Well what do I do? I take a holy bread that I used to keep and grab the knife and you know, clouding like, I cut it right through the bias. Then I take some roast beef. I don't remember exactly what, but anyway, I figure i'll put anything on. So I take some meat and cheese and I slap it on. I put some spice and stuff, and I make her up a sandwich. It was a foot high. Well, the Dame just eats it, that's all. She must have been plenty hungry. And when she gets through, she says, mister Ruben, that's the best sandwich I ever tasted in my life. Well, the idea comes to me in a flash. I'll call it the Anna Cilos Sandwich after the Dame. Then one night she brings some friends up, you know, stage people in a newspaper man and this guy he goes right behind the counter and makes himself up a sandwich. And then he tells me, why don't I call the sandwich after celebrities, like what happened with Anna Silos. Why don't I call it the Ana Cilo Sandwich. Well, boys, in a flash, I get the idea in a Silos, I'll call it a Ruben special. And that's how it started. Bless Tracy for reading that long quote I included for a nineteen eighty five book called Craig Clayborns The New York Times Food Encyclopedia. Arnold Ruben's daughter, Patricia B. Taylor gave the following quote describing the sandwich's origin. It has some subtle differences to your father's worship. It's us a little shorter, she said.

00:26:01
Speaker 2: Quote.

00:26:01
Speaker 1: The year was nineteen fourteen. Late one evening, a leading lady of actor Charlie Chaplin came into the restaurant and said, Ruben, make me a sandwich. Make it a combination. I'm so hungry I could eat a brick. He took a loaf of rye bread, cut two slices on the bias, and stacked one piece with slice Virginia ham roast, turkey and imported Swiss cheese, topped off with coleslaw and lots of Ruben's special Russian dressing and the second slice of bread. He served it to the lady, who said, Gee, Ruben, this is the best sandwich I ever ate. You ought to call it the Annette Seloast Special, to which he replied, like, hell I will, I'll call it a Ruben Special, though Arnold Reuben was very confident that he invented the Ruben sandwich. There's another contender which also has a good story, and that is Bernard Shimmel. This version is championed by Shemmel's granddaughter, Elizabeth Wheel, who first shared her family's story of the sandwich in the New York Times magazine. According to her, her great her grandfather was a hotelier who opened hotels along the railroad lines starting in Chicago and running west, and her grandfather, Bernard, was also in the family business. In the nineteen twenties, Bernard often played poker with his friends at the family's Blackstone Hotel in Omaha, Nebraska, and one night one of the players wanted a sandwich. That player was Ruben Koulakowski, and he asked for a sandwich specifically with corned beef and sour kraut, though Shimmel dressed it up with Swiss cheese and dressing, which is arguably what makes a Ruben Ruben. Sometimes, Ruben Koulakowski is given credit for creating it, and that has also been complicated over the years because Ruben's last name has sometimes been shortened to k Kay in various retellings because the resulting sandwich, though regardless, turned out so delicious Shimmel put it on the menu at all of the family's hotels.

00:27:57
Speaker 2: Now this has led to impassioned debate.

00:28:00
Speaker 1: The Ruben is to some a quintessential New York sandwich, and Arnold Ruben's family story is that he invented it in nineteen fourteen. There's no supporting evidence for that. On the other hand, there are print menus and newspaper mentions of the Shemel origin, but the earliest one is from nineteen thirty four on a menu from the Blackstone. This is later than the New York version is said to have been created, but it's the oldest primary source specifically naming the sandwich still. Even the Ruben family's earlier story describes as sandwich that has ham turkey and coleslaw on it, which is not exactly the Ruben sandwich as it's known today. Either way, it's the Shimmel Hotel group that won acclaim for the sandwich in nineteen fifty six, because that year it was entered into the National Sandwich Idea contest by a chef from one of the Shimel hotels, and it won and it got written up in a lot of papers, and it got to push into the national spot light and it has been popular ever since across the country and in my tummy. I love these episodes because I have a lot to.

00:29:12
Speaker 2: Talk about these saints, but.

00:29:14
Speaker 1: Also because I got to talk about my favorite sandwich.

00:29:18
Speaker 2: Listen, We'll eat a rubin any day of the week, Okay.

00:29:23
Speaker 1: And now I have listener mate, which is also another one about one of my favorite episodes, which is Advent Calendars. This is from our listener Amy, who writes, Hi, Holly and Tracy, I know you said you wanted to hear about all the Advent calendars.

00:29:37
Speaker 2: That is correct.

00:29:38
Speaker 1: This past year I got my kiddo one from the Exit Game company. They generally make games that you do all in one sitting, and they take a long time. We both have a hard time getting through that. But the Advent Calendar had one puzzle a day and all were tied into a larger storyline. There are multiple options, and she wants to get one every year now she's fourteen. So for anyone with a teen it's a super fun way to bond and make time to be together every day. They're not easy either. You definitely need the teamwork. Here is a photo of it. Also, I don't really have a pet, but here are some gorgeous cardinals I saw in Hawaii. I think they are called red crested cardinals. Chow and thanks for a fabulous podcast, Amy. This is such a cool idea and when I had never heard of. I feel like for people who love puzzle solving, this is a really, really great one. And I do like the idea that you bake in some family time during the holidays when it's busy and it's hard to stop sometimes and take a moment. These cardinals are beautiful.

00:30:41
Speaker 2: Listen.

00:30:42
Speaker 1: I'm a crazy bird lady at this stage in my life. I feed the birds and watch them on my deck for hours. So I am very happy for cardinal pictures. And these are very beautiful. They don't look like the ones that we would see in the continental US that are solid red. They are kind of a gray and black with white chests, and then their head is a spectacle killer shade of red. They're very beautiful, So thank you. I'll take wildlife pictures as much as i'll take a pet. If you would like to share your stories of wildlife pets. Games Admin calendars, sandwiches. I hope we get a lot of things about people's favorite sandwiches. You could do that at history podcast atiheartradio dot com. You can also find us on social media as missed in History And if you have not yet subscribed to the podcast, that is so easy to do. You can do it on the iHeartRadio app or anywhere you listen to your favorite shows. Stuff you Missed in History Class is a production of iHeartRadio. For more podcasts from iHeartRadio, visit the iHeartRadio app, Apple Podcasts, or wherever you listen to your favorite shows.

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